Air the garment, dry-remove loose soot, then wash it normally and expect to repeat three to five times. Do not tumble dry between washes, and skip fabric softener until the smell has gone. Send wool, silk and rayon to a dry cleaner. Feathers and foam are usually not recoverable.
What this guide covers: textiles that can leave the room to be cleaned, including clothing, bedding, curtains, small rugs, delicates and heirlooms. For lounges, timber, leather furniture and anything that stays where it is, read smoke damage clean up for furniture instead.
There is a piece of advice repeated on nearly every restoration website in the country: do not put smoke-damaged clothing in a normal wash, because you will set the odour permanently.
Queensland Health, EPA Victoria and the NSW Government all say the opposite. Wash it normally.
We have gone looking for the source of that “never wash it normally” line and it does not have one. It circulates because it sounds technical and because it happens to be good for business. What the government sources actually say is more useful and less dramatic, and it comes down to a single idea: the order matters far more than the machine.
Get the sequence wrong and you grind carbon into fibre. Get it right and an ordinary washing machine does most of the work.
Key Takeaways
- Dry before wet, always. Soot particles lodge in microscopic surface cracks and bond electrostatically. Wetting or rubbing them first ingrains them.
- Normal washing is fine, and is what health authorities advise. What is not fine is washing before you have aired and dry-removed.
- Plan on three to five washes. One cycle will not do it, and drying between washes locks in what is left.
- Feathers and foam are usually a write-off. Three separate Australian agencies say the smell is almost impossible to remove from them.
- Wear gloves, not just a mask. Some fire residues are absorbed through the skin, so air monitoring alone understates the exposure.
- Do not throw anything out yet. Photograph it and speak to your insurer first, and do not assume smoke damage is covered.
Why Smoke Residue Behaves Differently to Ordinary Dirt
Soot is not dust. The Australian War Memorial's conservation lab describes it as a mixture of oil, carbon and tar compounds, with particles so fine they lodge in microscopic cracks in a surface and become electrostatically bonded to it. That is why wiping spreads it and why water alone does not lift it.
That single sentence explains most of the mistakes people make in the first hour. You cannot brush this off, because brushing pushes it in. You cannot wipe it off, because wiping smears an oily particle across a wider area. And you cannot rinse it off first, because water carries it deeper into the weave before it carries anything away.
The AWM’s own method for cleaning soot damaged objects is three stages in a fixed order: vacuuming, then dry surface cleaning, then wet surface cleaning as a last resort. That is a national institution’s conservation protocol, not a cleaning company’s process diagram, and it is the best template a homeowner has.
What is in the residue
Worth knowing what you are handling, without the scare tactics.
Smoke from a structural fire carries the chemistry of everything that burned. Where synthetics, plastics, foam and treated timber were involved, that means a considerably nastier mix than woodsmoke. Washington State Department of Health notes that ash from structural fires often contains or emits heavy metals including arsenic and lead, asbestos, dioxins, benzene, formaldehyde and other volatile organic compounds.
On the carcinogenicity question, here is the accurate version. The World Health Organization’s International Agency for Research on Cancer classifies soot as found in the occupational exposure of chimney sweeps as carcinogenic to humans, Group 1. That classification rests on decades of heavy, repeated, largely unprotected exposure. It is not a finding that the residue on your shirt carries an equivalent risk, and anyone telling you otherwise is selling something. It is a good reason to treat the stuff with respect rather than bare hands.
Which brings up a point almost nobody makes. Safe Work Australia’s health monitoring guidance for polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, the compounds released by incomplete combustion, notes that the routes of exposure are inhalation and skin absorption, and that some PAHs are readily absorbed through skin so air monitoring may not reflect true exposure. So: gloves. Everyone remembers the mask.
How to Clean Smoke-Damaged Clothing, In Order
Do not enter a fire-affected property until the officer in charge says you can. Fire and Rescue NSW and DFES both make this a first instruction, and DFES adds the reason: walls, roofs and ceilings can give way without warning.
Once you are cleared, separate affected clothing from everything else immediately. Soot transfers. One smoke-damaged jumper in a clean laundry basket becomes a whole basket.
This is the step people skip and it does more than any product. Queensland Health’s guidance on cleaning up a smoke affected home is to air clothing outside in the sunshine and wind, then wash it. EPA Victoria says the same in its guide to cleaning a smoke-affected home.
On ventilation generally, South Australia’s Metropolitan Fire Service is blunt about it in its cleaning up after a fire fact sheet: thorough ventilation, as many windows open as possible for as long as possible, is the single most effective method of removing the smell. The same logic applies to a garment on a line.
Give it hours, not minutes. A full day if the weather is good.
Vacuum, or use a dry cleaning sponge. The State Library of NSW’s smoke and odour removal guidance recommends a vulcanised rubber smoke sponge used without water, or a vacuum with a soft brush used to gently move dirt towards the nozzle.
Critical detail from the Australian War Memorial: the vacuum nozzle should not touch the item, and should be used without brush attachments, because a brush drives soot further into the surface. Hold it just off. Do not press. Do not rub.
For heavy loose ash, take it outside first and shake it out downwind, wearing gloves and a P2.
Warm water, a liquid laundry detergent or one formulated for odour removal. Read the care label first.
Two rules that matter more than the detergent choice, both from University of Georgia Extension’s guidance on removing smoke and soot stains:
- Repeat the wash three to five times. Do not dry in between.
- No fabric softener until the smoke odour is gone. It coats fibre and traps what you are trying to release.
Do not overload the machine. Fibres need to move against water to release particles, and a packed drum stops that happening.
Both Queensland Health and EPA Victoria give the same formula for persistent smoke odour in washable fabrics: four to six teaspoons of washing powder plus a cup of household chlorine bleach in four litres of water, then rinse with clean water and dry well.
Both also warn that this will bleach clothes. Use it on whites and colourfast items, and test somewhere hidden first. It is a real option, from a government source, and it is stronger than most cleaning blogs are willing to recommend.
Outside if you can. Smell it once it is fully dry, not while it is damp, because damp fabric reads as cleaner than it is.
If odour remains, go back to step 4. Do not tumble dry it and hope.
A small point from EPA Victoria worth passing on: rewash items left outside for extended periods, which protects sensitive skin, a baby’s especially, from possible irritants picked up while airing.
What Goes in the Machine, What Goes to a Dry Cleaner, What Goes in the Bin
| Item | Approach | Why | Realistic outcome |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton, linen, denim, synthetics | Air, dry-remove, then normal wash, 3 to 5 cycles | Durable, colourfast, tolerates repeat washing | Usually full recovery |
| Wool, silk, rayon | Dry cleaner, as soon as possible | SA MFS names these three specifically. Water and agitation damage them, and wool is porous and traps particles | Good, if it goes early |
| Leather and suede garments | Specialist leather cleaner | Water-sensitive, and needs re-oiling after cleaning | Usually recoverable, rarely DIY |
| Curtains and drapes | Vacuum in situ, then dry clean or wash per label | Large surface area, often the worst-affected textile in a room | Good, but check for heat shrinkage |
| Small rugs | Machine wash if the label allows, otherwise professional | Washington State DOH advises machine washing small smoke-affected rugs | Usually good |
| Mattresses | Specialist upholstery cleaning | Queensland Health notes these may be cleanable by a specialist | Case by case |
| Feather pillows and doonas | Usually replace | QLD Health, EPA Vic and SA MFS all say it is almost impossible to remove smoke odour from feathers | Poor. Budget for replacement |
| Foam products | Usually replace | Same three sources. Foam holds odour in a structure nothing reaches | Poor |
| Heirlooms, lace, sentimental textiles | Textile conservator, before anything else | One wrong wash is irreversible | Depends entirely on going slowly |
| Medicines, cosmetics, anything for skin | Discard | NSW Government advises disposal, as harmful chemicals can be ingested or absorbed | Discard |
That feather-and-foam row is the one people argue with, so here it is directly from the sources. SA MFS: “It is almost impossible to remove smoke odours from feathers and foam products.” EPA Victoria and Queensland Health, near-identically: it is almost impossible to get the smell of smoke out of feather pillows or foam.
Three agencies, same conclusion. If someone offers to deodorise your feather doona, be sceptical. Put the money towards the things that will actually come back.
Heirlooms and Delicates: Slow Down
Do nothing first
The instinct is to act fast. With irreplaceable textiles the instinct is wrong. Photograph it, isolate it in a clean cotton sheet or an unsealed box, and get advice before you introduce water, heat or product. A bad first attempt removes the option of a good second one.
Skip the ozone chamber
Some dry cleaners and deodorising services offer ozone treatment. The State Library of NSW states plainly that ozone chambers are not recommended by the conservation profession, because ozone degrades paper, leather and adhesives. For a wedding dress with a paper-backed label, or a leather-trimmed piece, or anything glued, that is a permanent trade you cannot reverse.
Passive odour absorption instead
The State Library's own alternative for delicate items: air with circulated air, or bag the item loosely with an absorber such as bicarbonate of soda, zeolite powder or unscented cat litter. Not touching the textile. Slow, safe, and it does work.
Insurance: Do Not Assume Smoke Is Covered
This is the section most restoration content gets wrong. Australia's national money guidance service, Moneysmart, cautions that fire cover generally requires a flame to have caused the damage, and that you may not be covered for smoke, ash and soot damage. Read the Product Disclosure Statement before you assume anything.
The exact wording on Moneysmart’s storm, flood and fire insurance page is worth reading twice: “Generally, a flame has to cause the damage. This means you’re not covered for heat-related damage, like scorching and melting, or smoke, ash and soot damage.”
That is ASIC’s own consumer regulator saying it. It does not mean you are not covered, because policies differ and many do extend to smoke. It means the confident “your insurance will cover it” line you will hear from a lot of people is not something anyone can promise you.
So, three things, in this order.
Photograph everything before you move it. The Insurance Council of Australia advises taking photos or video of damage to your property and contents before you start.
Do not throw anything out. ICA: don’t throw away items that could be repaired, unless they pose a health risk. Fire and Rescue NSW says the same, adding that you should not discard damaged goods until the inventory is made.
Speak to your insurer before you start cleaning. This is the single most useful instruction in the whole ICA document, and almost nobody follows it: “Speak to your insurer before undertaking any clean-up activities.” Unauthorised work may not be covered.
On how a contents claim settles, Moneysmart notes insurers may repair or replace damaged items or pay you the amount it would cost to do so. Which is why the restore-versus-replace conversation is worth having deliberately: professional cleaning of a wardrobe often costs materially less than replacing it, and that maths is the insurer’s interest too.
Protecting Yourself While You Do This
- P2 respirator, properly fitted. SafeWork NSW is direct about it: P2 masks as a minimum, and do not use ordinary paper dust masks, handkerchiefs or bandannas.
- A P2 only works if it seals. Australian Chief Medical Officer and state Chief Health Officer guidance notes that men need to be clean shaven for the mask to be effective, and that P2s do not protect against gases such as carbon monoxide.
- Gloves, long sleeves, closed shoes. Because of the skin absorption point above.
- Do not dry sweep ash. The US EPA advises against actions that kick ash particles into the air, such as dry sweeping. Mist first, then wet mop.
- Pre-1990 house? SafeWork NSW notes fire-damaged asbestos material does not release significant fibre unless disturbed. So do not disturb it. Get it assessed.
- Standards note: AS/NZS 1716 has not been withdrawn. Standards Australia has adopted a suite of ISO-based respiratory standards that will replace AS/NZS 1715 and 1716 by 2030, and both run in parallel until then. A P2 to AS/NZS 1716 is still correct today.
Sources for this section: SafeWork NSW, HealthyWA and the Australian CMO, US EPA, Standards Australia.
When to Hand It Over
Volume is the honest trigger. One jumper is a Saturday. A whole wardrobe, plus the linen cupboard, plus the curtains, while you are also dealing with an insurer and finding somewhere to sleep, is not.
The other triggers:
- You cannot identify the residue. Where synthetics burned, the chemistry is different and more aggressive, and the treatment differs with it.
- The odour survives five washes. At that point it is not a laundering problem.
- High-value or irreplaceable items. Designer pieces, textiles with provenance, anything you would grieve.
- You are trying to keep an insurer’s cooperation. Documented, itemised professional cleaning is the format assessors work with.
Professional fire damage restoration handles contents at volume with itemised inventories and controlled cleaning, which is a different exercise to running loads at home. Where soot is the dominant issue rather than odour, soot cleaning addresses the residue directly. Curtains, bedding and soft furnishings fall under linen and upholstery cleaning, rugs are treated by material through rug cleaning, and where the smell outlasts the residue, odour removal treats the source rather than masking it.
For the wider picture, our smoke damage restoration guide covers the whole property. Furniture is dealt with in smoke damage clean up for furniture. Walls and ceilings, which is where the soot on your clothes originally came from, are covered in soot cleaning on walls and ceilings. And if the fire was followed by water from firefighting, you may also be dealing with mould on clothes, which is a different problem with a different method.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I wash smoke-damaged clothes in a normal washing machine?
Yes. Queensland Health, EPA Victoria and the NSW Government all advise washing smoke-affected clothing normally. What matters is what happens before the wash: air the item outside in sun and wind, then dry-remove loose soot by vacuuming or with a dry sponge. Washing before you have done that is what grinds carbon into the fibre. Expect three to five wash cycles, and do not dry between them.
How many times will I need to wash it before the smell goes?
Usually three to five cycles, and sometimes more for heavy exposure. The two things that stall progress are drying the garment between washes, which locks in remaining odour, and using fabric softener before the smell has gone, which coats the fibre. Air dry, smell it once fully dry, and repeat if needed.
Are feather pillows and foam cushions worth cleaning after a fire?
Usually not. South Australia’s Metropolitan Fire Service, EPA Victoria and Queensland Health all state that it is almost impossible to remove smoke odour from feathers and foam. The odour sits inside a structure that cleaning cannot reach. Photograph them for your claim, do not discard them until your insurer has seen them, then budget for replacement rather than treatment.
Will my insurance cover smoke damage to clothing and contents?
Do not assume so. Moneysmart, the Australian Government’s money guidance service, warns that fire cover generally requires a flame to have caused the damage, and that smoke, ash and soot damage may not be covered. Many policies do extend to it, but you need to read your Product Disclosure Statement. Photograph everything, keep all damaged items, and speak to your insurer before you begin any clean-up, because unauthorised work may not be covered.
Should I use an ozone treatment to remove smoke odour from clothing?
Not for anything delicate or valuable. The State Library of NSW states that ozone chambers are not recommended by the conservation profession, because ozone degrades paper, leather and adhesives. For heirlooms, leather-trimmed garments or anything with glued components, the damage is permanent. Passive absorption with bicarbonate of soda or zeolite, and plenty of air, is the safer route for irreplaceable items.
Why Choose AllAces
35+ years on fire and smoke jobs
Residential and commercial, across Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and surrounds.
IICRC-certified technicians
Residue identified before a method is chosen, not after.
Contents handled properly
Itemised inventories and documented cleaning, in the format insurers work with.
Straight answers on what is not worth saving
Including when the answer costs us the work.
Trust the experts and contact AllAces on 1800 00 10 10.
More on smoke and soot. Fabrics are only part of it. Soot is acidic and starts working on building surfaces the moment the fire is out, so those usually need attention before the wardrobe does: soot cleaning services.
Where the problem is smell rather than residue, the source is still sitting in the substrate and masking agents will not shift it. See cigarette smoke smell removal for how that is actually treated.
Fire damage restoration and contents cleaning, 24/7 emergency response. Call 1800 00 10 10.
